With such an abundance of drinking options, it's odd to think that the area around Sydney's Central Station can actually be quite a difficult place to find a good local beer. But fear not because there's something of a hidden gem just a few minutes' walk up Devonshire Street: the Dove & Olive.
The pub might be more familiar to Sydneysiders as Hotel Clarendon or O Bar, recent guises in the long history of the venue which stretches back to the 1800's. But changing tastes meant a change was needed and that's exactly what it got late in 2012; new owner, new look, new name - new life. And with that came new beer.
Nowadays, the Dove & Olive pours an ever-changing and always-solid selection of brews, from the very local (think Grifter Brewing, Young Henrys and Riverside) to those from further across NSW (i.e. Illawarra, HopDog and Murray's) and big names from other states (Feral, Hawthorn, Little Creatures). And while the pub hasn't ditched mainstream beer completely, you couldn't accuse them of not encouraging people to give craft a go; there's always a cheap craft schooner on offer (check the blackboard behind the bar), good deals on craft jugs and tasting paddles available.
For those already hooked on the good stuff there's plenty here to keep you happy, like the fridge of bottled limited releases and international brews. Then there are the monthly events where craft beer gets placed firmly on a pedestal. First up are the Beer Dinners; four course degustations where the chefs are given free reign to come up with an extravagant one-off menu to match with locally-made beers. At the other end of the spectrum - from the refined to the raucous, as it were - are the famous Craft Beer Fight Clubs. These nights feature two local brewers spruiking two beers each in an always-entertaining battle for beer supremacy. The audience (of which there are usually more than 100 in attendance) votes to decide the victor and the winning beer pours at the pub for the following month.
But despite quality brews and interesting events, the Dove & Olive doesn't trade solely on the back of craft beer. The fact it serves good beer could almost be considered a bonus because there are other perfectly good reasons why people come here, not least of which is the food. The everyday menu follows an Italian-American theme that includes a jazzed-up blend of pub classics that's not only excellent, but excellent value. And when it's served up in such clean, cosy and charming surrounds, the Dove & Olive is quite a package. Little wonder then that the pub pulls in such a diverse audience; from the lunchtime crowd to evening diners, post-work-pint drinkers to casual sports fans and families enjoying an afternoon out - everyone is welcome here. And with two bars serving two levels, each of which has an outdoor area, there's plenty of space to ensure everyone finds a comfy place.
An unpretentious and well-dressed boozer offering quality across the board - and from mid-2014 in possession of 36 taps pouring around 20 craft beers - the Dove & Olive is one Surry Hills local you should take the time to get to know. Nick O
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