FANCY HANK'S HAS MOVED! WITH THE ORIGINAL SITE BEING REDEVELOPED YOU'LL NOW FIND THEM IN BOURKE STREET. UPDATED LISTING COMING SOON!There are very few things that have torn up the Melbourne food and drink scene in recent years like craft beer. But among those that can claim to have fired a revolution of their own is the world of BBQ. People just can't seem to get enough smoky, sticky, briskety, cooked-longer-than-a-dugong's-gestational-period, meaty goodness into them.
Among those leading the way is one of the originals, Fancy Hank's: owner of a trio of giant smokers and, these days, found in permanent residence on the edge of the Queen Victoria Market. There, in the former Mercat Cross Hotel, they lure diners with the irresistible aromas of traditional American style ribs, brisket, pulled pork and beer can chicken – cooked slowly over 16 hours each and every day behind a picket fence on the balcony.
Of course, this isn't The Sticky Brisket you're reading. It's The Crafty Pint, which means there must be a beer offering to speak of. And, since bringing in a beer guy with experience at some of Victoria's best known beer venues and breweries, Fancy Hank's increasingly has that too. The taps have been getting craftier although, being a BBQ joint, don't come expecting the latest sours or barrel-aged imperial stouts – it's more a case of flavoursome beers that will sit well with rich, smoky, spicy food. Cans are becoming something of a feature too, fitting well with the American vibe.
That said, it's an American vibe with a difference. The former Mercat Cross has been altered little by its current inhabitants so, thanks to the exposed brick walls, benches and stool, and wraparound balcony, it's reminiscent of an old country pub. Where it has been altered is the liberal application of BBQ and beast related memorabilia and signage, much of which will raise a smile.
There's more to the sprawling venue, which seats 250 and is licensed for 700, than that too. On your way upstairs to the main pub, there's a glass-ceilinged atrium dotted with greenery and overstrung with the basest of multi-coloured festoon lighting – not to mention more of that amusing signage. Then there's a function space with its own tap system that's increasingly being used for overspill as their audience grows, plus wood fires, a pool table and a corner that's home to Buck Hunter, presumably so you can imagine you've killed what you're about to eat.
Add in DJ nights, a barman brought in to introduce kick ass cocktails and expand the American whiskies on offer, as well as regular beer events (they've started brewing beers with friends like Two Birds) and it's fair to say it's a place designed for fun. And if that's not abundantly clear already, the fact there's a massive "BRISKET LIFE" mural above the bar next to a framed photo of Tupac should seal the deal.
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